THE LUXURY WATCH EDIT

6th March 2024

It’s never a better time to treat yourself or a loved one, whether it’s a gift, or simply because… well, why not? Here’s what your wrist needs to be rocking right now. Words by Alex Doak and Laura McCreddie-Doak.

The blunt switch to four sides for Hublot’s cult, ‘octagonally circular’ Big Bang was jarring at launch in 2022, but this year the Square Bang feels settled-in, with all to play for, let alone play with given the versatile canvas that the Swiss disruptor has given itself. This Storm Trooper of a watch weaponises its matte-white ceramic armour with a black-detailed flyback chronograph, whose stopwatch mechanics – observable dial-side – operate with laser focus.

80922 | £22,600

Ahead of electric off-roading series Electric E’s second race of the 2023 season, in Scotland no less, principal sponsor Zenith unveiled a suitably uncompromising chronograph crafted entirely in carbon fibre. Dumfries and Galloway, let alone former opencast coal mines have never seen such futurism on both counts, but given the latter being on the verge of transformation into a plant and wind farm, perhaps change is in the air on all fronts.

81246 | £26,600

Fabrizio Buonomassa embdodies the ‘eyes’ of Rome and Elizabeth Taylor’s favourite jeweller-turned-watchmaker – a genial genius hailing from the motor industry who isn’t afraid to disrupt his own iconography. The genius lies in the outcome: the core-collection ‘Octo’ smoothed out as ‘Roma’, managing still to retain the monumental DNA of the Italian capital. The royal-blue dial is etched in ‘Clous de Paris’ relief, in perfect concert with its faceted framework.

80937 | £6,800

The yellow gold ‘thing’ is back, just like red lipstick, perms and vinyl. Even hyper-functional, super-affordable Swiss mechanical diving watches aren’t immune to the Eighties revival, it seems. Crowned by 18 carats of gleaming, unidirectionally rotated bezel, here you have a straight-up waterbaby fit for the murky depths (all 200 metres of them), but also the murky wee hours of Annabel’s, if you know what we mean…

79999 | £4,400

The reason it’s impossible to imagine a different partner for Italy’s Mille Miglia vintage rally is probably the same reason Chopard has been riding shotgun for a full 35 years. The watchmaker and three-day regularity race through 1,000 miles of sweeping Tuscan and Lombardy countryside share equal passion for beautiful engineering and performance, born of co-CEO Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s own participation, manifest in watches like this rakish riff on the watchmaker’s yearly special edition, now in pistachio-green on retro driver’s-glove-style strap.

80972 | £8,220

Dropping in parallel to news of Tudor cutting the ribbon on its factory in Le Locle – Swiss watchmaking’s heartland, in other words – the new Black Bay GMT couldn’t be a more perfect posterboy for Rolex’s all-grown-up sibling. An opaline dial as fresh as an ice cream on a hot summer’s day, mechanics made entirely in-house and rigorously tested for precision and anti magnetism by live-in robots, plus a second time-zone 24-hour bezel as vivid as the new facility’s red cladding.

80964 | £3,400

Coloured dials are having a moment but if you don’t want to go bold, dip a sartorial toe with this delectable pistachio-hued number from Chopard. As the name suggests, this is a watch designed to make you smile with diamonds that skitter joyously around the dial. In keeping with the trend for smaller dials across the gender divide, this is a refined 30mm, which means it could cross-over into cocktail hour should you not have time to change.

81057 | £5,660

Despite being on a rubber strap, there is something wonderfully decadent about this Spirit of Big Bang. There’s the inky black dial, lit up by a bezel set with diamonds and the opulent rose-gold case. Powering it is Hublot’s HUB1120 automatic movement that has a 40-hour power reserve and, if you’re brave enough, it’s good to 100m. Ideal should you find yourself on a yacht – because this is so a “yacht watch” – at midnight and someone suggests a swim.

81032 | £24,500

It’s hard to believe this iconic design will be 75 this year. It still looks so original, so out of time. Rather like the animal that inspired it, the Serpenti can take many forms, here is it on the minimalist yet sinuous tubogas in steel and rose gold. The envy-inducing green dial has a beautiful sunray guilloche pattern and is flanked by two rows of delicate diamonds. It’s a little touch of everyday luxury.

80936 | £13,200

Ryan Gosling was seen rocking this exact Carrera on the Barbie pink carpet, emphasising his unique brand of Ken-ergy. Should want some of that vibe in your life, then this is the watch for you. It is unabashedly pink, which transforms the Carrera’s familiar lines into something fresh and new; the sportiness coming across as insouciance. It is the perfect way to bring a splash of colour to a winter wardrobe. This watch is everything. Not just for Ken.

80952 | £2,750

The Black Bay has morphed from rugged “Boys’ Own” tool watch to become the brand’s key collection shape, appearing in every livery from bronze to bicolour. This 36mm version keeps the tool watch aesthetic but refined it. A 36mm case is a nod to its 1950s origins, however the steel case and bracelet brings it into the 21st century. Using diamond hour markers on a champagne dial cleverly soften the ruggedness, without making it overtly feminine.

80986 | £4,100

Idris Elba may be a fan of the pink dial version of this design but if you’re pinked out after a summer of wall-to-wall Barbie then this steel-on-steel is the perfect palate cleanser. This is a modern interpretation of a steel sports watch. Gucci’s interlocked Gs are subtly embossed on dial, the lack of hours markers brings a feeling of serenity, while the diamonds elevate it beyond the everyday. Meet your new daily companion.

79776 | £3,280

Zenith has opted for a dial in a shade that is pretty rather than PeptoBismol and it complements the steel beautifully. You could have diamonds on the bezel, but this unset version feels preferable. The pink sunburst pattern on dial brings subtle detail, while the dodecagon bezel is an elegant refinement of the usual octagonal style. Under the dial is Zenith’s Elite movement with 50-hour power reserve, giving this watch brains as well as beauty.

80480 | £7,900

CONTINUE READING

ROX Magazine presents… the ‘London’ issue. After opening our first boutique in London last year, it felt only right we dedicate our new issue to all that sparkles in the capital of cool.

Step back in time and embrace smaller dimensions. Smaller sizes are gaining in popularity driven by the popularity of vintage models and watch brands are now taking note.

The contemporary choice for those looking for a dynamic timepiece to get you noticed.